Bouncing down a dodgy coast road on
the peninsula of Peljesac, I glance at the glistening Adriatic and catch
sight of the island of Mljet.


Many Croatian place names look like typographical errors: Losinj, Krk, Pag, Unije, Hvar. Call for a new proofreader!


Such
names, with their emphatic, truculent consonants, are one of the charms
of foreign travel. Strange languages, strange peoples, missing vowels —
and missing teeth, too, if this pot-holed, rubble-strewn road 
continues much longer.






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